Anyone with a driver’s license knows that being behind the wheel can at times be a little much on the nerves. But those of you who take for granted those societal conventions known as stop signs, traffic lights, turn signals and general common sense will have at least one thing to be homesick about if you’re tough enough to drive here in Asia.
I live in Korea (in a tiny suburb of Seoul with a population of nearly 4 million), and each morning, half-asleep and still beery-eyed, I take the very real risk of walking out my apartment door and onto the thoroughfare. In the beginning I would tell wide-eyed, exasperated stories to my co-workers about my experiences during the half-mile trek – but in all things, I suppose, one becomes acclimatized to the situations they face daily, and thus nothing short of being actually killed now seems worthy of conversation. The callous disregard for red lights, the sudden and unpredictable u-turns in heavy traffic, the lack of signaling and generally random and spontaneous behavior of many vehicles on the road, etcetera – all of this has become second nature to me. For instance, the impact of having your 65 cent city bus, crowded well over capacity, suddenly veer off the highway and into a gas station, have itself filled with diesel - without being turned off - by a man who does not put out his cigarette (to his credit, the ‘No Smoking’ signs are in English), and then casually remerge with the sea of maniacal drivers begins to lose its frightening novelty after prolonged exposure. I now bike to school in the morning…
People in Shanghai drive fast – that is the only word that seems to fit. Even late at night on small streets with only two lanes you’ll see Chinese people with a caution that borders on paranoia scanning the darkness for a trace of movement or noise. Despite the copious amounts of Tsingtao I was consuming during my trip, the extremity of the roads in Shanghai had an almost instant sobering effect.
In Vietnam I traveled by bus, car, motorcycle-taxi and cyclo. Each one had it’s own specialty fear linked to it. Compared to Seoul and Shanghai, however, the traffic in Ho Chi Minh City was… Well, I can’t do it justice with words:
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN_t0Ic-2u4]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BarYqv0yc90]
It looks to me as if both of these vids were shot from a motorcycle-taxi. (My sincere thanks to the courageous YouTube posters of these killer vids. I couldn’t bring myself to unpocket my camera whilst I was on the back of one of those bikes…)
p.s. I’ve never driven a car in my life.