Kathmandu is a many-sided, all-sensory experience not to be taken lightly.

Coming from the hard steel and concrete of Seoul, a metropolis of breakneck speed and all the bleeding edges of technology, it was inevitable that I received my first impressions of Kathmandu while in a kind of dazed stupor. The crumbling brick masonry of the narrow, muddy and poverty stricken streets; the wandering livestock that unhesitatingly bring traffic to a standstill; and the innumerable smooth talking hawkers who can spot a disoriented tourist through the thickest crowd, all combine into a mind-melting assault.

Finding your footing on Nepalese soil takes time, but as you begin to cautiously lower your guard and let your instincts do what they do best, you’re likely to be struck a second time by the unassuming nature of your guesthouse manager, the easygoing atmosphere emanating from every shop and cafe, but above all by the vast and exotic possibilities that sparkle in front of you.

Below are three pictures of Swayanabath, fittingly dubbed The Monkey Temple by the faithful (and tourist conscious) residents of Kathmandu. The hundreds of Columbus monkeys that accompany the Buddhist monks and the camera-toting tourists up the steep concrete stairs of the South hill add an element of the surreal to the otherwise exhausting climb – a climb well rewarded by a panoramic view of the Kathmandu valley from the commanding stupa at the top. Thought to house a relic from the life of Lord Buddha, the stupa, a bloated white dome topped with a gold painted brick monument (eerily decorated with the eyes of Buddha), is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in the valley. Though over the course of nine weeks I came to see a dizzying and eclectic assortment of stunning religious and natural sights, I don’t doubt that if Swayanabath were the last rather than the first among them, the experience would not have been less magical.



It is today unwise (impossible?) to attempt the overland journey to Nepal from Europe, but in the ‘70s Kathmandu was a Mecca for freethinking travelers seeking enlightenment amongst the holy shrines and monuments of Shangri-La’s capital. The hippy vibe, the delicious cuisine and (not least of all) the legendary and legal hashish made Kathmandu irresistible to the motivated traveler. The city has undoubtedly changed since those sunny days, but it retains its indescribable essence today. A locus of impossible contrast, Kathmandu, once tasted, cannot be forgotten.


I would return to Kathmandu two more times before I left Nepal (the city has an inescapable gravity). Nevertheless, at the time I knew it was time to make my exit – Namaste Kathmandu.

tags technorati : Nepal Kathmandu Travel Travel Writing